February 16, 2011
by Steve
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Puerh tea has been one of China’s best kept secrets for almost as long as the West has been trading goods with them. This is most likely due to a lack of interest on the whole of western culture, as opposed to China needing to keep a segment of its ancient past sacred and unscathed.
Puerh tea is a fermented tea derived primarily from ancient tea trees. It is predominantly produced in the Yunnan Province of China, an area that contains an abundance of naturally occurring Tea Gardens or uncultivated, wild tea regions that have not been shaped by man. Puerh, is often compressed into a variety of shapes and sizes, even pressed into contoured pictures/characters. Puerh cakes or Beeng Cha were originally produced in an effort to make tea easy for traveling; that is to be able to carry a lot of tea at one time. For those who traded along routes such as the now-famed Tea Horse Road carrying a lot of tea or whatever else you sold was important so that your long journey was at least monetarily worth it. Carrying loose leaf tea would have been a waste of effort once you went to sell it, because you would have had much less to barter with. Puerh was given its name by Puerh City, China where this unique compressed dark tea was most often traded and bartered with.
The processes involved in manufacturing puerh set it apart from every other type of tea, making it eligible for its own category of beverage aside from being a sub-category of tea. I argue this for two reasons: Firstly, those who are into puerh are often exclusively into puerh and cannot even fathom drinking it in the same sitting as other processed teas; relate to those who seek herbal blends as opposed to actual tea. Secondly, due to puerh’s specific processing and region of origin it has effects on the body, mind and spirit unlike any other processed tea.
Puerh undergoes fermentation through one process or another. Some leaves take the high road and some take the low road. There are two different ways to produce what is sold and commonly known as puerh cha. Traditionally, puerh has been picked and undergone a series of processes including wilting, withering, heating, rolling and often compression. The initially uncompressed not-yet-aged puerh is known as maocha and will either be compressed and aged as sheng tea, which in turn only becomes puerh as the initial bacteria, present at the moment of production and compression, starts to grow and age the tea from the outside in and inside out. Or, the maocha will become shoucha, fully ripened tea. Shoucha is produced using a process similar to composting where maocha is placed in a humid environment, then turned over continuously and controlled very carefully so as not to overproduce and create actual compost! During a 4-6 month period the tea in this expedited aging and bacterial formation process undergoes full oxidation as well as fermentation, and like the fresh maocha that it once was, will either be aged as loose leaf puerh or compressed into a cake, brick or other shape.
We know what happens to a lump of coal when given time, correct pressure and heat. In less time puerh tea becomes one of nature’s most noted splendors. The best puerh tea is that which nature herself has aged over time, often tasting complex, rich, smooth and earthy depending on where it was picked and how long it has aged for. When sheng maocha has had time to naturally ferment and oxidize by being exposed only to the air, it becomes something very desirable. Shoucha, or ripened puerh is often bold, thick like syrup and usually as black as coffee, is able to replicate the appearance of well aged sheng puerh, yet the connoisseur will know almost immediately that the product is not what it appears to be, once it is tasted. Granted, the initial purpose of creating shoucha was not to fool people into thinking that what was being produced was one and not the other but was simply another way of processing, aging and eventually enjoying tea. The process of composting tea leaves to create an aged tea was created in the mid/late-70s, possibly as an answer to higher demands on aged tea production and consumption worldwide.
By replacing bad bacteria and simultaneously introducing good bacteria into our human digestive systems, we see a great tea/human partnership at work for detoxification and overall health. On a “puerh”ly physical level many scientific studies show puerh tea and its known health benefits, including antimicrobial properties and lessened LDL cholesterol levels in those who drink it regularly. Unlike the commonly held belief that puerh fills us with caffeine and we will certainly be up all night if we have any to drink, puerh actually has more chemicals that help our body and mind to relax naturally, than it has to stimulate us. After drinking puerh tea people often comment on how relaxed, calm, and even joyful they feel. Rarely do I see people get up from the tea table, lace their shoes and run a marathon… okay, never have I seen that! On an even subtler level puerh can offer great healing benefits for those who pay attention and are aware that healing might even be a possibility through tea. Used in China as literal medicine for as far back as known text was recorded, tea has been used in some way or another to help just about any and everything that could go wrong with a person, even if simply being an old comforting friend to help soothe away pain.
Tea has a gentle spirit that can impart many great teachings unto us via osmosis and also through a subtle current of energy. As stewards of this great beverage all we need do is pay attention, show reverence and brew respectfully. Even a rough diamond does not look like much until it is cut with great precision. If we exact this type of precision, not rigidness, but right intention onto our lives we too will shape the rough stone of our heart into a masterpiece beyond words.
Many of the fine puerh teas featured in the East West Tea Garden are sold by Bana Tea Company